KYIV, Ukraine — The wedding registry center in the heart of Kyiv was a whirlwind of romance and celebration, a reflection of the defiant optimism on display throughout the Ukrainian capital these days. Some were tying the knot on a summer Saturday after the war delayed their plans. Others, like Larisa, 31, and Roman, 30, rushed into marriage, aware of how quickly things can change. “We decided that regardless of the situation in the future, we will always be together,” said Larissa, who like others interviewed did not give her full name for security reasons. “Our family is sure that love always wins and Ukraine will definitely win.” Across Kyiv—a city where the future is far from clear, but many yearn to find pleasure in the present—Ukrainians are trying to recapture the rhythms and joys of everyday life amid the vagaries, uncertainties, and sorrows of war. In Kyiv on Saturday.Credit…Lynsey Addario for The New York Times There is perhaps no better place to feel the pulse of Kyiv in the summer than on the banks of the Dnipro River. Before the war, people kayaked and woke up, music blasted from concerts and raves, crowds sunbathed or played sports. That tumultuous cacophony has yet to return. But the world is coming back. A pedestrian bridge in the center of Kyiv on Saturday. Credit…Lynsey Addario for The New York Times Alexander Savchenko, a champion bodybuilder, was swimming Saturday with his coach and his girlfriend, Valeria Baildalia, 27, all from Odessa. Mrs. Baildalia’s home is in Berdiansk, deep in the heart of the occupied south. He doesn’t know when he will be able to return. Alexander Savchenko, 29, right, and his coach, Mykhailo Pershin, 18, are photographed by Mr Savchecnko’s girlfriend Valeria Baildalia, 27, on the beach along the Dnipro River in Kyiv on Saturday. Credit…Lynsey Addario for The New York Times Valentina Shevchenko, 64, was leading a class in valeology, the science of healthy living through proper exercise and nutrition. He led half a dozen worshipers dancing and gyrating to a pop song. For several months in the spring, they could not meet because of the war. But now they’ve resumed their routine, with one change: They all wear blue and gold uniforms, the colors of the Ukrainian flag. Volodomyr, 79, said they end the class with the phrase: “Glory to Ukraine, health to all its people and thanks to our Western allies.” Ukrainians led by Valentina Shevchenko, 64, right, exercise along the Dnipro River in Kyiv on Saturday. Credit…Lynsey Addario for The New York Times On an island in the middle of the river, Petro, a 53-year-old ex-soldier and retired lawyer, stood on the sandy shores dressed in loincloths, a jar of fly larvae tucked into his pocket. He had come to fish for perch and carp, while also looking for peace. Six months ago, instead of a cane, Petro carried a machine gun and prepared to defend his home as Russian forces descended on Kyiv in the first weeks of their invasion. More than four months since the Russians were forced to retreat from the outskirts of the city, Petro returned to his favorite fishing spot. “It takes away all the tension from the war and all the negative thoughts,” he said, waiting for a bite. “I just want to clear my mind. And if I catch a fish, I thank God.” Petro, 53, fishes along the Dnipro River in Kyiv on Saturday. Credit…Lynsey Addario for The New York Times —Marc Santora and Lynsey Addario
